Chartres Cathedral

On 15 Sept we visited Chartres Cathedral, one of the World's great medieval churches. Chartes is considered one of the high places of Christendom, and has been a cradle for European pilgrimage dating back to the 4th century. The Cathedral currently standing was completed and consecrated in 1260. There have been a number of other church buildings on the same site, probably starting with a Roman christian temple - parts of which still exist today.

Chartres cathdral from front

Chartres cathedral from back

Chartres cathedral south side

What sets Chartres apart from the other great medieval churches, is that it has survived into the 21st century almost intact, not only architecturally but with its vast iconographic program in 12th and 13th century stained glass and sculpture. It has the greatest number of stained glass windows than any cathedral in the world with over 150 different windows.

Stained glass windows in the ambulatory



South Rose window

Medieval art was not just to embellish the church building but to instruct people, for there was no printing and many people could not read. Scholars could therefore teach there students, the clergy preach sermons and parents read the lives of saints to their children using the texts represented in the stained glass.

Chartres is often referred to as the Lady of Chartres and is based on the veneration of the Virgin Mary. They have a fragment of the silk shroud that Mary was believed to have worn when giving birth to Jesus.

Mary's shroud

Most of the cathedrals in France are owned by the government, not the church. Chartres is currently on a 5 year program of restoration and cleaning. The discrepancy between the cleaned and uncleaned parts is incredible. But unfortunately the Royal Portal on the west front of the church was obscured by scaffolding, nevermind we will just have to come back many times over the next five years!

Cleaned upper versus uncleaned lower part

Cleaned roof of ambulatory

Uncleaned roof of ambulatory

If you visit Chartres be sure to book into the tour given by Malcom Miller, a guide at Chartres for over 50 years and whose knowledge of Chartres is perhaps second to none. Mr Miller's tours are immensely informative and amusing.

Mr Miller interpreted a number of the stained glass windows for us, which opened up a new world as there are around 150 of them and being able to at least try to understand them is like learning to speak a foriegn language - the experience is enriched. Did you know that iconographic stained glass windows are read from bottom up and left to right? The windows at Chartres do not merely present parables and scripture, but through symbolism provide a commentary on the parable or bible story presented.

Two of the many stained glass windows

We also did a tour to an 11th century crypt under the cathedral that combined romanic and gothic architecture. They still do mass in the little chapel in the crypt.

Chapel in crypt

Visiting seven monumental Catholic churches within the space of 4 days has reconnected me to my Catholic heritage. The Catholic Church, despite its many failings, now and in the past, has provided and continues to provide a space and means for human beings to connect to something infinite and metaphysical. Bereft of the human failings derived from dysfunctional ego - selfishness, fear, desire, greed, abuse of power, religion provides a platform to experience the divine aspects of life - love, wisdom, generosity, devotion, kindness, justice, and beauty.

Chartres, and other monuments like it, are there to remind us of and connect us to the divine. We thank our forebears for their erecting them, recognising the time, skill and cost of doing so.

Photos of the day:



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