We drove into Venice airport and said a fond farewell to our rental car, which had been our second home for the month and looked after us very well. We returned it in good condition, which was a very sound effort given we drove on the right hand side of the road, in a left-hand drive vehicle, mostly had no idea where we were going and travelled at speeds far greater than we were accustomed to and not far short of the speed of light.
The airport is right on the sea so we walked to the docks and caught a speed boat taxi to the hotel. This was a spectacular way to greet Venice. It felt like something out of a James Bond film. The night was warm, the sun just relinquishing its hold on the day and the lights of Venice were fast approaching.
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Water taxi from airport in Venice |
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Remaining wetlands near airport - what Venice is built on |
Upon arrival we dropped off our bags at the hotel, an old monastery called Centro Culturale Artigianelli, and then went for a quick and cheap meal at an adjacent restaurant. After dinner we couldn't bring ourselves to return immediately to the hotel as it was such a lovely night and Venice beckoned! Strolling alongside the canals, through squares, past shops selling art and antiquities and observing the the vibrant international flavoured Italian culture at play, was extremely romantic and two hours passed very quickly.
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Hotel room in Venice |
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Venice at dusk |
We woke early with the flu. Unbelievable! I had it worse than Nadine and was too ill to even think about getting up and stepping out. Nadine, however, ventured out for a little while (to do the washing), though returned after lunch to join me for the afternoon marathon nanna nap. We slept through the entire afternoon and early evening, awaking feeling well enough to venture out for dinner. We ate a lovely little restaurant not far from the Hotel that served up a delicious tomatoe, basil and mozarella salad.
Venice has a number of universities and exuded the excited, intellectual vibrancy that we had observed in other student cities on our travels - Amsterdam, Utrecht, Paris and Avignon. The lack of cars in the streets increases the sensual experience - you see, smell, and hear so much more.
I woke up the next day still with fever but determined to get out and see Venice. We decided that walking accross the city and then catching a ferry to Murano island was the best way to take in as much as possible. So off we went. We didn't get far, as the streets were flooded. Venice is sinking 5mm per year and at high tide the water rises up through the drains and over the banks of the canals flooding the walkways and city squares. On such occasions, which occur more frequently in Autumn and Winter, very loud sirens sound to inform inhabitants to put on their Wellington boots - and they do, regardless of whether they are elderly people doing shopping, businessmen in suits, couriers carting goods or retailers selling wares. It is incredibly interesting watching a city go about its day in Wellingtons. Of course, we were unaware of the floods and the need for Wellington boots so had three choices: go back to hotel and wait for the water to subside, walk around in bare feet or go back to the hotal and change into jandals (thongs - for the Aussies). We chose the later option and this proved genius and refreshing, as we were able to walk inencumbered across the city and had very clean feet by the time we arrived at out destination.
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High tide in Venice |
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Beautiful Venice |
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Parallel parking in Venice |
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Venice gondola |
Murano island is famous for its glassware and it didn't disappoint. Watching the men at work was enlightening; these people are artisans creating beautiful things. Apparently it takes around 12 years to learn the craft well enough to sell the production. It is not everyday that one is in Venice and on Murano island and accordingly we made sure to purchase a few momentos and buy some presents!
Murano is an enchanting place. It has a very slow and relaxed pace, no cars, lovely canals, colourful houses and warm air. Being there was very special - dispite the flu that kept fighting for survival.
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Murano village |
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Murano glass sculpture |
We returned to the hotel, had a shower and then rushed out to dinner, needing to get across the otherside of the city to a restaurant that was recommended by a friend. On the way we ran across an idle gondella and gave into the temptation of taking a gondella ride to the restaurant. This was the highlight of our entire European trip. In floating effortlessly through the silent side canals of Venice, past the grand palaces and the ancient houses (one was built in 1100), we were swept up by the current of love that has inspired so many before us. Venice is a magical place.
Photo of the day:
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Venetian ambulances |
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Venetian grocery shops |
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